Men’s blazers and suits in small sizes

Reading a jacket size

In Europe, jackets and suits come in even numbers that roughly match half the chest measurement in centimetres: a size 44 fits a chest of about 88 cm, a 42 about 84 cm. In letters, a 44 is an XS and a 46 is an S. British and American brands use the chest in inches: a UK 34 equals an EU 44, and a 32 equals an EU 42.

Shoulders first

The shoulder seam should end where your shoulder ends. A shoulder that is too wide creates a dent below the seam and drags the whole jacket down; it is the one part a tailor cannot really fix. If the shoulders fit, almost everything else can be adjusted.

• The collar stays flat against your shirt, without lifting away at the back.
• The middle button fastens without X-shaped creases; unbuttoned, the jacket should not hang.
• The length covers at least half of your seat; with your arms by your sides, the hem reaches your palm.
• The sleeves show one to two centimetres of shirt cuff.

Slim, tailored or classic

On a slim frame, a slim or tailored fit with light shoulder padding looks sharper than a classic cut. Unstructured jackets, without heavy canvassing, also sit very well in small sizes. For a suit, choose mid-rise, tapered trousers that follow the line of the jacket.

Suit separates: the best idea

Many brands sell the jacket and trousers separately (suit separates). That way you can take a 44 jacket and W28 trousers, rather than a full suit where one of the two pieces will not fit. It is often the simplest solution when your top and bottom are not the same size.

What can be altered, and for how much

Shortening sleeves, taking in a jacket’s waist or hemming trousers are routine alterations: expect a few tens of euros per alteration at a local tailor, more for working buttonhole cuffs. Reworking the shoulders or heavily shortening a jacket is expensive and rarely successful: better to change size or model.

EU 42 and 44, XS, UK 34: every conversion is in the men’s size guide.