Men’s shirts in XS: the slim fits that sit right

Letter size or collar size?

Shirts are sold either in letters (XS, S…) or by neck circumference: the collar size, in centimetres in Europe and in inches in the UK and US. In practice, a 37 collar (14.5 in) is an XS, a 38 (15 in) is an S and a 36 (14 in) is an XXS when a brand offers it. The collar is the most reliable measurement: measure around the base of your neck, add one centimetre, and you have your size.

Be careful: at some brands, the collar size changes nothing else in the pattern. A 37 shirt in a “regular” cut can still be wide at the chest, so always check the fit.

The three markers of a well-cut shirt

Shoulders

The shoulder seam should fall exactly on the shoulder bone. If it slides down your arm, the shirt is too big, and that is the one thing a tailor cannot easily fix.

Sleeves

With your arms by your sides, the cuff stops at the base of your thumb. Small sizes often have sleeves designed for a medium shortened by only a few millimetres: check the sleeve length in the retailer’s chart (around 62 to 64 cm from the shoulder seam on a 37 collar). Width matters too: a slim sleeve, without excess fabric at the bicep, changes the whole look.

Body and length

A slim or fitted cut reduces the room at the chest and waist; back darts slim it further. For a shirt worn untucked, the hem should cover your belt without going past the middle of the fly. For a tucked-in shirt, extra length stops it from riding up.

Which fabrics?

• Oxford: thick and slightly textured, it holds its shape and forgives a slightly roomier cut. Perfect for every day.
• Poplin: thin and smooth, for dress shirts. It reveals folds of excess fabric, so a truly slim cut is best.
• Stretch cotton: a few percent of elastane for a close fit that stays comfortable.
• Linen: light and breathable; it creases and softens, and a fitted cut keeps it from looking too loose.

What if there is no XS?

Many brands start at S. In that case, go for their slimmest cut rather than the classic cut in S, and compare the chest width measured flat: under 50 cm, an S shirt usually stays close to the body on a slim frame. A tailor can then take in the sides and add darts.

To find your collar size and the conversions between sizes, see the men’s size guide.