Men’s XS jumpers: knitwear that doesn’t swamp you

Fine or chunky: the gauge

The gauge is the number of needles per inch on the knitting machine: the higher it is, the finer the knit. A 12 to 16 gauge jumper (fine merino, fine cotton) follows your frame and fits under a jacket; a 3 to 7 gauge gives a warm, chunkier knit with more volume.

On a slim frame, a fine knit in XS or S naturally sits close to the body. For a chunky knit, take your exact size, never one up: its thickness already adds volume.

The details that matter

• Shoulders: the seam sits on the shoulder bone; on a drop-shoulder jumper, it deliberately falls a few centimetres lower.
• Ribbing: firm at the cuffs and hem, it keeps the sleeves off your hands and stops the jumper from puffing at the waist.
• Length: the hem stops at the belt or just below; a longer jumper that folds over itself gives away a size that is too big.
• The neck: a clean crew neck, a half-zip or a fine roll neck add structure to the upper body.

Which yarn?

• Merino: fine, soft, temperature-regulating. The best balance of versatility and price for fine knits.
• Cotton: ideal for spring and autumn, easy to care for, but it can stretch; choose a fairly tight knit.
• Cashmere: very warm for a featherweight. Good yarn pills little; “100% cashmere” and a 2-ply yarn are good signs.
• Lambswool, Shetland: more rustic, for chunky winter knits.

Be wary of jumpers with a lot of acrylic: they pill quickly and lose their shape, which shows even more on a small size.

Keeping the size wash after wash

Wash wool and cashmere cold, on the wool cycle or by hand, without rubbing, then dry flat on a towel. Never hang a wet jumper: it stretches and can grow a size. Fold it rather than putting it on a hanger.

Between XXS, XS and S, compare your chest measurement with the men’s size guide.